June 30 2026
Rhea Poddar Loyalka: Bringing India’s gemstone carving heritage to the world of contemporary jewellery
(Jun 30, 2026) Rhea Poddar Loyalka left a potential career in finance to launch Deshya, a contemporary jewellery brand inspired by her family’s 25-year gemstone carving legacy. Today, the NYU graduate and certified gemologist from the Gemological Institute of America is bringing India’s gemstone carving heritage and rare coloured gemstones to collectors in India and abroad.
Beyond the familiar sparkle of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, Rhea Poddar Loyalka sees an extraordinary world of rare coloured gemstones that deserve a place in contemporary jewellery. For her, gemstones are much more than beautiful objects. She believes they carry the stories of the places they come from. Inspired by the thought that “people are made of places,” she sees gemstones in much the same way—formed over millennia by fire, pressure and time, each carrying the essence of its origin, its landscape and its history.
That philosophy forms the foundation of Deshya, the contemporary jewellery brand she founded, inspired by her family’s 25-year-old gemstone carving legacy, Ma Passion. Through Deshya, she is bringing India’s centuries-old gemstone carving tradition into the world of contemporary jewellery.
‘Deshya’ means ‘where you belong’ or ‘your roots’. Through our carvings and jewellery, we hope to show that India’s rich culture and heritage can inspire creations that resonate with people around the world.
Rhea Poddar Loyalka
Born and brought up in Mumbai, Rhea’s fascination with gemstones began long before she thought of building a business around them. Her parents, who are art lovers, founded Ma Passion in 2001 to preserve and uphold the ancient Indian art of gemstone carving. Some of her fondest childhood memories are of returning from school and spending hours admiring the elaborate carvings displayed at her parents’ exhibitions. By the age of eight, she already knew the names of nearly 40 gemstones.
From NYU to the gemstone industry
Although surrounded by gemstones throughout her childhood, Rhea initially chose a different path. She studied Economics at New York University in the United States, with plans of pursuing a career in finance.
The pandemic, however, changed everything. Helping out with the family business rekindled her fascination with gemstones and inspired her to understand them beyond their beauty. She enrolled in the graduate gemology programme at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in Carlsbad, California, where she immersed herself in the science of gemstones and the ancient geological processes that create them.
“After my education, I decided to shift my focus from finance to a more creative route of starting a jewellery brand that would fuse the art of gemstone carving with modern sensibilities—art that could be worn and adored,” she says in a chat with The Global Indian.
Growing up surrounded by my family’s gemstone carving business, I developed a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and emotional value that goes into creating exquisite pieces.
Rhea Poddar Loyalka
Since 2009, her family has been participating in the Pueblo Gem and Mineral Show in Tucson, Arizona, sharing India’s gemstone carving tradition with collectors, miners and traders from around the world. “After visiting the show, I realised the scale of the industry,” she mentions. “I was inspired to start something more universal which would allow me to introduce the rarity and uniqueness of gemstones to a larger Indian audience and, at the same time, share our Indian art form with the world.”
Discovering rare coloured gemstones
While diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires dominate the jewellery industry, Rhea believes there is an entire universe of extraordinary coloured gemstones waiting to be discovered.
Her collections celebrate gemstones that are rarely seen in mainstream jewellery. She specialises in working with unique and offbeat stones such as druzy agates, Japanese coral, Indonesian pearls, tanzanites and rare tourmalines, alongside diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Each collection combines intricately carved gemstones with expertly cut and faceted coloured stones, resulting in one-of-a-kind creations that celebrate both rarity and craftsmanship.
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Drawing inspiration from nature, architecture, antiques and the extraordinary palette of gemstones themselves, she has consciously created an aesthetic vocabulary that moves beyond the clichéd showstoppers of emeralds and rubies alone. Her close association with artisans, deep understanding of the gemstone industry and cosmopolitan design sensibility have shaped Deshya into a brand that makes India’s generational artistry wearable and contemporary.
Lessons from the global gemstone industry
Few industries are as interconnected as gemstones. From miners and traders to cutters, designers, retailers and collectors, every gemstone passes through countless hands before reaching its owner.
Being in the carving business and purchasing rough gemstones to create our carvings has allowed me to meet people from many different cultures. These friendships are formed on trust and honour, and getting to know people from different walks of life truly gives me perspective on the greatness of the world.
Rhea Poddar Loyalka
That international exposure has profoundly shaped her views on work, leadership and entrepreneurship.
Today, Rhea divides her time between Ma Passion and Deshya. For both brands, she remains closely involved in sourcing rough gemstones that are transformed into intricate carvings.
“With Ma Passion, I get the experience to work in a legacy brand that has been established for 25 years, and with Deshya, I am in the initial stages of building the brand. Both brands come with their own challenges in the space of management as well as marketing, but I try to learn something every day. Everything becomes worth it when our patrons and clients are satisfied and display the same level of passion for gemstones and the art of carving as us,” she says.
Building a modern jewellery brand
Joining a family business with decades of history also came with its own learning curve.
“Ma Passion was established in 2001, and when I started working there, there were many small facets of the brand that needed to be altered to stay relevant,” she says.
Among her earliest priorities was modernising the company’s digital presence by building its social media platforms and putting new systems in place. “I am still learning the importance of teamwork and the art of delegation. There are days when the number of tasks at hand gets overwhelming, but as a team, we try to do our best,” she admits.
A multi-coloured Jewellery set from Deshya
Taking India’s gemstone carving heritage global
The name Deshya translates to “where you belong” or “your roots”—a reflection of the brand’s larger philosophy.
“Through our carvings and jewellery, we hope to showcase that you can be relevant globally because of India’s rich culture and heritage. Learning from our heritage and keeping it relevant as times go by would allow us to be confident on the global stage and share our colour vibrancy with the world at large,” she says.
That philosophy extends beyond jewellery to the artisans who keep the centuries-old craft alive. Around 20 master kaarigars work with the company in Jaipur, Rajasthan, many of them exclusively.
It is our goal to support the artisans so they can pass on their knowledge and skill to their future generations.
Rhea Poddar Loyalka
Looking ahead
Outside work, Rhea enjoys music, dance and reading, but her long-term vision remains firmly rooted in gemstones. Looking ahead, she hopes to take both Ma Passion and Deshya to international audiences while building a community of collectors who appreciate not only exceptional gemstones but also India’s remarkable carving tradition.
“Creating a loyal and passionate customer base is our ultimate goal—where they become family and fellow upholders and patrons of this beautiful art of gemstone carving,” she concludes.
Her advice to young entrepreneurs is simple: stay passionate, remain persistent and keep going.
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Written By: Vikram Sharma
