(July 4, 2025) Over 10,000 artisan families in Kolhapur, Maharashtra — have the world at their feet.
The striking yet humble Kolhapuri chappal — made popular in the US with the hippie movement in 1970s — is back on a global stage, with a vengeance, thanks to Prada, the Italian luxury fashion house.
While the beautifully designed open-toed T-strap Kolhapuri sandals made a graceful entrance at Prada’s spring/summer 2026 menswear show, which captivated everyone’s attention — it was not until Prada recognised the influence of Indian handcrafted footwear in its designs — that put global spotlight on Kolhapuri chappals.
Kolhapuri at Prada Show
For the artisans in Kolhapur, who have been crafting these chappals by hand for generations, the Italian luxury brand’s recognition, which came days after ignoring the Indian craft — has come as a shot in the arm.
Not the first time
“I’m very glad that Prada has publicly acknowledged the inspiration as well as agreed to help and collaborate with the artisans in the future,” smiles Anupama Dayal, who recently accused South American apparel chain Rapsodia of plagiarism, in a chat with Global Indian.
She hopes other brands will also take note and lead to a decline in the plagiarism of Indian fashion and Indian deep crafts. “I say this because at a very personal level, me and my artisans have suffered a lot,” says Delhi-based Anupama, who had alleged in this March that the fashion house (Rapsodia) had been showcasing “copied” designs for their fashion shows and retailing them across multiple stores.
The fashion designer was “shocked” to find Rapsodia — a lifestyle and women’s apparel brand based out of Buenos Aires — replicating her prints and styles on the brand’s website and social media page. “They have been profiting from my work without any credit at all,” she shared adding that the brand had been selling Anupama’s collections from 2022.
Gucci did it too
This is not the first instance in which global brands have faced allegations of appropriating traditional Indian products without acknowledging their origins. During the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci referred to a sari donned by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown.
Alia Bhatt in Gucci saree at Cannes 2025
Similarly, in May this year, a widely recognised TikTok trend faced criticism for referring to the dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, as a Scandinavian scarf.
From runway to roots: Kolhapuri chappals in spotlight
At the Prada show recently, the sight of models walking the runway in the footwear was simply labelled as “flat leather sandals” sparking a deeper conversation about how global fashion houses often repackage traditional craftsmanship as luxury items, without credit or compensation to the original artisans.
This omission led to backlash from Indian fashion circles and traditional artisans in Maharashtra, who cited a violation of the GI-tagged footwear’s heritage.
It forced Prada to address the concerns regarding the collection that featured Kolhapuri chappals by expressing that the design draws inspiration from the traditional Indian footwear.
Prada acknowledges Kolhapuri inspiration after backlash
Following feedback regarding its footwear that closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals, Italian fashion house Prada has recognised the influence of Indian handcrafted footwear in its designs.
Kolhapuri at Milan Fashion Week
“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men’s 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility.
Proud Moment – Kolhapuris go global
“This is a proud moment for all of us. We now suddenly have a global audience,” Harshwardhan Patwardhan, the founder of Chappers, a brand renowned for Kolhapuri chappals, tells Global Indian.
Harshwardhan is thrilled that Kolhapuris are inspiring global fashion. “It’s the biggest testament to our artisans’ timeless work of centuries. But inspiration must come with respect: just credit isn’t enough; collaboration is key to the long-term success of both.”
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From muse to maker: India’s push for design equity
He says it’s time the world sees India not just as a muse but as a prominent manufacturer of heritage craft. “Luxury labels should co-create with our artisans, not just borrow styles and inspiration from them. So, is this going to be a game changer or just another high-end brand borrowing without credit? Either way, Kolhapuri chappals just hit the global runway,” he feels.
Harshwardhan says that this episode will pave the way for long-term partnerships that bring manufacturing, design credits, and prosperity to India.
Currently, he says, the replicas of Kolhapuris are being sold at a markup of 100 times the original price. “In short, we don’t just want a seat at the table — we’ve been crafting it for generations,” says Harshwardhan, adding that our artisans must be given the opportunity.
Ever since the controversy, Harshwardhan says he has witnessed a 30-40 percent rise in sales, and a 400 percent increase in visitors on his social media accounts.
The sandals, known for their durability, cost about $12 (£8.75) in India, whereas a majority of sandals offered by the fashion house are priced between £600 and £1,000 in the UK market.
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The Indian trend
Renowned fashion designer Rina Dhaka says she is happy that Prada picked up on the Kolhapuri trend. “Many are now following the Indian trend of wearing comfortable footwear like the ones they (Prada) showed.”
With Kolhapuri, says Rina, men now have the relief of not having to cram their feet into overly warm shoes, as they now have more room. “It’s sad that the Kolhapuri patent isn’t strong enough for it to get a word in and be acknowledged,” adds Rina.
Heritage with a GI tag: Kolhapuris rise
Kolhapuri footwear is renowned for its use of vegetable-tanned leather, sophisticated braiding techniques for the toe loops, and indigenous designs.
It was awarded the GI tag in 2019, which certifies how a product originates from a specific geographical area and possesses qualities or a reputation because of that origin. A GI tag helps preserve traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and the livelihoods of its local practitioners.
The World Trade Organisation defines a geographical indication tag as a designation that attributes a good or product to a specific region or location, serving as a symbol of authenticity.
Has this tag ever prevented a luxury fashion label from engaging in cultural appropriation?
Yuvraj Sambhaji Chhatrapati, a former Member of Parliament, shared his concerns on Facebook. In his post, he wrote, “Companies that copy centuries-old Indian art and culture without following due process must be held accountable. The Indian government should take concrete action to address such violations. As consumers, we must also raise our voices and compel such brands to acknowledge their mistakes.”
He was not alone, even celebrity stylist Anaita Shroff Adajania reposted a photo from the Prada show on her Instagram, highlighting what everyone was already whispering about: these weren’t just any designer sandals; they were “a pair of good old Kolhapuri chappals”.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka didn’t mince words. “They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture,” he said.
As voices grew louder, so did the call for fairness. Kolhapuri chappals may have made it to the global stage, but now it’s time for real change. Big brands must go beyond borrowing — they need to credit, collaborate with, and support the artisans whose hands keep these traditions alive. Because this isn’t just about fashion. It’s about legacy, livelihood, and long-overdue respect.
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