The article first appeared in Scroll.in on Sep 18, 2024.
Indian food played an unexpected yet significant role in fostering connections and solidarity during South Africa’s fight against apartheid. With the arrival of over 150,000 indentured Indian laborers between 1860 and 1911, brought by British colonial rulers to work in sugar fields, Indian culinary traditions became deeply woven into the fabric of South African culture.
In Durban, the heart of KwaZulu-Natal province, Indian food evolved uniquely to suit the local context. A notable creation is the bunny chow, a hollowed-out bread loaf filled with curry. This dish became a symbol of shared culture and sustenance across racial lines. Its accessibility and flavorful appeal resonated with people from various communities, making it a unifying culinary symbol. Similarly, establishments like the famous World of Samoosa became popular across all communities, drawing long queues of people eager to savor its iconic offerings. Such places became hubs of cultural exchange, transcending racial divisions even during apartheid.
Indian cuisine’s broader cultural impact extended to moments of resistance against racial segregation. Indian food was a shared experience in activist circles, bridging gaps between South African Indians and the oppressed African majority. In such settings, meals were more than sustenance; they were moments of solidarity and exchange, highlighting shared struggles under colonial and apartheid rule.
The power of Indian food to unite was acknowledged even during periods of racial tension. In 2002, Mbongeni Ngema, a celebrated South African playwright, sparked controversy with his song AmaNdiya, which criticized the Indian community’s perceived economic dominance in Durban. Despite its provocative message, Ngema ironically cited his love for Indian food as evidence of cultural appreciation. His reference to roti and paaku (curry) underscored how deeply Indian cuisine had permeated South African culture, transcending divisions even amidst discord.
Nelson Mandela, South Africa’s moral compass, denounced divisive rhetoric like Ngema’s, promoting unity in the new democracy. Indian cuisine, in this context, symbolized the enduring bonds forged between communities. Publications like Indian Delights, a landmark cookbook by Durban’s Women’s Cultural Group, further celebrated this culinary heritage, cementing its place in South African identity.
The legacy of Indian food in South Africa is more than a story of migration; it is a testament to resilience, cultural exchange, and the unifying power of shared experiences. From simple sugar fields to beloved spots like the World of Samoosa, Indian cuisine remains a flavorful thread connecting diverse communities in a nation shaped by its fight for equality.
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