This Article First Appeared In nytimes.com On March 31, 2023
Ah, the symbolism. On Thursday evening, about 850 local and international celebrities, artists, editors and influencers (and editor-influencers, since they are increasingly becoming one and the same) gathered in Mumbai in front of the historic Gateway of India as multicolored lights played on the nearby Taj Mahal Palace hotel and cool breezes blew in off the Arabian Sea. They were there for the first official Dior show in the country, smartphones in hands to blast selfies to the world.
The archway was covered in a 12-foot-high embroidered Toran, the Hindu door hanging that traditionally welcomes guests. The runway was divided by elaborate renderings of floral art and flickering lights. Outside, hundreds of young women had waited hours for a glimpse of the Thai actors and Dior guests Mile and Apo. A live band played. And out came 99 looks, a paean to the country and its artisans (and to the opportunity India represents as a luxury market) in the form of a pre-fall collection, jazzed up with some special additions.